OK so i looked at other posts to see if this question has been asked but i didn't see what i was looking for. I apologize if its on here i just didn't see it.

Since i threw on my FMIC I've been having this problem where ill press the gas all the way down and the turbo boosts all the way (on the dash boost gauge, if you can call it that) but the car picks up VERY slowly RPM's climb slow as well. This doesnt happen all the time only when I'm rolling in any gear up to about 3k rpm and then slam it. If i just slam the gas through all the gears the car runs fine and the problem doesn't happen. I can also get rid of the problem if i downshift, for example: Im in 3rd and the car starts to act up i can throw it in to 2nd and it runs fine. At first i thought it might have been the FMIC but it did this when the car was all stock.

I asked the fellow talon owners i know and this was new to them, so im hoping you guys know what im talking about, i hope i explained myself well.

None of us will tell you anything since we are not important lol jk see you do need our help. Try a boost leak test since anything boost related will be a leak somewhere.

hhahaah thats not what i mean bro. Besides i tried getting you those reducers earlier

Get a real boost gauge as soon as you can and do a boost leak test to make sure all your connections on the new front mount are solid.

Agreed with the boost leak, after you make sure there are no leaks check the condition of the knock sensor as it might be dead and pulling timing because it thinks there's tons of knock when there really isn't any.

+1 boost leak. Since it happend after the FMIC install. The stock boost guage is about as accurate as a kid with down syndrome in a calculus class. It's based off of airflow calculation through the airflow meter IN FRONT OF THE TURBO. It has NO reference to how much pressure is in the intake manifold so it doesnt really read boost. You can actually disconnect IC pipes and drive it (if it runs) and that thing will still show boost.

2nd thing is what Clock said, knock sensor. Little sensor on the back of the block, above the AC compressor, Under the intake manifold. If it has goo leaking out of it, or loose, it will make your car do what its doing. If you have a FWD its easier to get to it from under the car if you remove the bracket the bolts the intake mani to the block. You can chuck that bracket at someone you don't like after, it serves no purpose whatsoever IMHO.

Ok so I'm thinking that the knock sensor has to go, I've heard that they usually go bad at about 80k miles, don't know how true that is. My friend also recommended me to do so. What exactly does the knock sensor do? Some of you guys here seem to think it could be this as well. So should I go ahead and do it?? Also my friend said it was worth a shot pulling a used one off a junk yard but if they do go out at 80k then there's no point

You can't really remove your knock sensor since it plays a CRITICAL role in running your engine. Just inspect it first and if you can't find a decent one for cheap just dish out the $75 for a new one.

DO A BOOST LEAK TEST FIRST.

Not even 75 dude I got lucky and found it for 55 brand new!!! Boost leak test first?? Or just change the knock sensor??

Even if you change the knock sensor do a boost leak test. You should do one every time you make a change to any part of the pressurized intake track. And just to be sure your car is running good one should be done every couple of months just to make sure everything is good.

ok cool ill try the boost leak test first, reason i haven't tried it is because my friend, who knows a lot more says the car shows no symptoms of a boost leak but i can try it, wouldn't hurt

You should stop listening to your "friend" since a boost leak test is never a bad idea. Report back after doing a proper NLT.

very true i decided to do a boost leak test for the heck of it and replace my clamps, turns out there was a gash on my jpipe....once that was taken care of the car pulled even harder. you have nothing to lose just gain

I described the problem to another guy with a talon I know, he said I had that same problem and that his mechanic suggested that he change his spark plugs, when he did the problem went away. Another person, also with a talon said he had a similar problem, his plugs were not gapped properly and decided to just get new ones and gap them properly, when he did the problem went away as well. So they said it was worth a shot and that I should try it. I decided tocheck the gap and realized they were at 40, I think the proper gap should be around .28 to .32 or somewhere around there. So I test drove it after this and the car ran a lot better but after a while the problem still happens but muuuuch better. So can plugs have this great of an effect? Is this possible??? I bought some new NGK BPR6ES' to see if this will further help.