I saw a turbo on craigslist and wanted to hear what others thought about it. here is some info he has told me - " Used Turbonetics B-trim T3, turbo has about 1200miles, Garrett Housing, .63 hot, .60 cold. or the other way around, if you have a 4 cylander, Its more than your motor can handle."







would this bolt up to t3/t4 420a manifold?
is this too much turbo?
any advice is helpfull

Id like to get over 200hp and maybe around 250hp runing around 5-8psi. Looking for something that spools quick and last awhile ill email and ask him if that is the turbo.

this was his reply when I asked what is a b-trim and what trim it is - " nothing to do with honda. its the amount of pressure it creates. the size of the body of a t3 is typically .60 and .63. This is bigger than .57 and .50. This were built by turbonetics with the best parts available at the time. Seriously, when you see them you'll understand. they are in excent shape. and if you have a 4 cylander, Its more than your motor can handle."

It kinda looks like a turbo off of a thunderbird turbo

The guy is full of shit.

I have a .84A/R T3 GT2871 sitting here on my desk (Arts old turbo from his S2K) but whats this BS about t3 .60-.63AR. I should kick him in the nuts. AR is nothing more than Garrett's version of housing sizing. MHI uses the CM^2. Compressor housing size don't play that big of a role in a turbos characteristics, so really, ignore the compressors A/R. The turbine side plays a large role in how a turbo will perform. If you think of a turbo as a pinwheel, exhaust gas as water, and the turbine housing as a nozzle. A smaller nozzle will cause the water to come out at a high velocity, spinning the pinwheel really fast, but amount of water flowing will be little compared to a large nozzle. A large nozzle will flow a lot of water but velocity of it will suffer unless pressure is high enough.

Smaller A/R= Faster spool up, boost response, chokes your flow top end.

Bigger A/R= Laggier, Flows a lot top end.

More an engine flows=the more power.

You can only breath as fast as you can inhale and exhale. Choosing a housing size will effect where your power comes on, and where it will fall off because its choking the engine from exhaling.

What determines how efficient a turbo is at different pressure ratios, and how well it flows at a certain compressor/turbine speed is the Compressor/Turbine wheel size, fin count, ratio between inducer/exducer(trim), fin height, and a million other things.

any thoughts on this turbo
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pt ... 16718.html

just that little "identification badge" on it, makes me doubt the turbo. Most turbos made by Garrett don't have it, and usually say Garrett on it. All the information posted in that ad tells me jack crap other than its a mid sized A/R so you are looking about a 3-4K RPM full boost. How efficient it is, who knows. How reliable, who knows. Anyone who says "wet floating bearing" should get kicked in the nuts, its called a journal bearing. I've never heard the term "wet floating bearing" other than ebay descriptions of turbos, and people who know nothing about turbos.

For a turbo, I would recomend this. More expensive but you'll be buying it once.
Hahn Racecraft 10cm^ TD05 T3 Turbine housing - P/N# H RP-4035- $236.24
Any 16G/14B variant $100-$300, without a turbine housing, put em together, viola! T3-mitsu hybrid.

Just got a call form a friend of mine. I told him you were looking for a turbo so he's going to PM you on here Doug with the details on what he has.

thanks for you Sam & Nick for looking out for me and your knowledge