Hi guys,

I'm trying to tackle an iddle issue, and so I would like to hook up my LC-1 innovate wideband to help log accurate a/f readings. I plan to datalog into my DSMLink. However When it's time to smog, which is what I am trying to get done ASAP, I will need to make sure the stock O2 is feeding the ECU. So when I'm logging I will feed the wideband output to the ecu and set the ecu to ignore the stock o2. WHen I need to pass smog, I will disconnect the wideband output wire, and hook up the stock O2 wire and set the ecu to check for the O2 so that I can pass the OBDII checks.

Got 2 questions.

1. The LC-1 manual, it states that on Turbo'd cars, the sensor should be mounted downstream from the turbo, but before the cat. So I plan to Mount the Wideband Sensor in the downpipe, just before the flexpipe. I made a diagram to help illustrate it. Would this be an appropriate location to get accurate readings?



2. According to the manual - it states the following:
a. Wire the red wire to 12v switch
b. Wire System Ground and Heater Ground to same source
c. If the innovate is going to feed the ecu for datalogging, the ground should be the ECU's input signal Ground
d. The red wire (Anode) of the LED should be connected to the calibration wire, and the black wire (Kathode) to the ground wire of the Push Button Switch.
e. The Grounds to both the Kathode wire and Push Button Wire, should be connect to the Heater Ground.

So to make some sense out of this, I tried drawing it out on paper. Here is a diagram of how I have interpreted the instructions. If any of you have installed the LC-1 on your car, can you please confirm if this is the correct wiring for this setup?



Thanks.

David.

FYI, Just checked on another forum and they stated NOT to connect the ground to Pin 92. It could fry the ECU. Instead use a chassis ground. So my question is this:

I do have a multimeter, but I have never used one before. How do I use it to check for a good ground?

FYI, I have a Etek 10709 Multimeter



David.

hook one side up to the neg on battery. And poke at something metal where you plan to tap into for ground with the other one. Set the multimeter to check for resistance (omega sign) and if you get 0 resistance, its a good ground.

No real need to switch it back to stock for smog. You want to wire the wideband output into the ECU's rear O2 input. The rear O2 does diddly squat for emission, all it does is checks to see if the cat is still working. DSMlink can disable the rear o2 check, so it wont throw a light. When they smog your car, the dont check the sensors signals, the check the "ecu rediness checks", v2 DSMlink can bypass this with the palm software. But say for some reason you want to log rear o2 and switch back to log wideband output, heres a diagram.

Oooo, thanks. I totally forgot about using a switch to go back and forth between signals. I like that.

Well I didn't have a palm when I started this thread. I tried to use an emulater on my laptop. but had no luck with that. So I just ordered one from ebay this afternoon. A Palm IIIxe. So hopefully that will help out.

Thanks.

David.

any of them will be fine zero is zero.

ok. Thanks.

It'll be a three prong switch.
http://www.surplusresistors.com/media/c ... switch.jpg

ok. Thanks.

David.

I currently Have my EGT, Boost and Fuel Pressure Gauge (lights and sensors) being fed into pins 12 and 15 for power and ground. Would runing the WB power wire to pin 12 be to much?

I also have my indiglos hooked up to my cig lighter (the light) for power and ground.

Thanks.

David.