Rebuilding Clutch Master Cylinder
I rebuilt my cylinder and found it to be easier than I expected so I'll write up a quick overview of what I found since bad clutch pressure is a prominent problem from what I've experienced.
Your master clutch cylinder.
Start by disconnecting the pedal assembly joint off the rod (will make dismantlement easier)
With a pick or small strong driver, pull the each end of the locking clip out. Clip should easily spring out afterward releasing the rod and lock washer exposing the piston.
Parts that should be off by now.
At the bottom of the housing is a screw. I had to fight with mine by finding a well fitting flathead as not to strip the head.
With the screw extracted, the piston should be released along with its spring.
My piston/cylinder looked to be in salvageable condition and figured the leak to be attributed to a worn outer seal.
The seals will poof out away from the piston at a slight angle. The outer seal which was responsible for the leak did not have the angle and looked recessed towards the piston. Remove the inner and outer seal, preferably using a sturdy pick or small driver. (Be careful not to nick or scratch the outer piston walls)
I had some minor pitting occurring so I doused the cylinder and piston with brake fluid and light went over the surface with 1000 grit frequently flushing the area with more brake fluid.
With everything removed, go over the components and clean as much of the dirt and sludge as you can get to.
Making sure you flushed the sanded surfaces (if you needed a light sanding) I applied light fluid to the new seals I took from a cheap cylinder replacement. Slide them carefully over the cylinder in the same direction of the ones you removed. Repack the spring and piston back into the cylinder and drive the retain bottom screw back into place. Then, the hardest part for me was holding the rod w/washer in one hand while pressing the cylinder in slightly and snapping the locking clip back into the retaining groove. Once locked, add on the nut, pedal joint and fluid tank. Fill up the little fluid tank a few times and empty out the cylinder by working the piston back and forth to remove any debris and metal flakes as the surfaces begin to hone together.
A week and 250 miles later with much city traffic driving, my cylinder still has a dry boot and solid feel. Hope that clears up the process for some of you.
