I did some research on this mod, and I'm aware that the rods need to be machined in order to fit the 2g pistons. No big deal, I can do that in class. But then I came across this tech article on tuners, http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... ction.html, and from my interpretation, this only applies to 1g's since it mentions that this was done on a 1g GSX. As far as a 2g, will I have to worry about timing control or detonation control? Also, the article mentions a supporting mods list in order to run the 2g piston/1g rod combo reliably. Is this necessary for a 2g as well?
I'm doing a 6 bolt swap into my 2g, but one of the pistons from the 6 bolt had broken ringlands, so I decided to use my 2g pistons, but just need some clarification before I go ahead and do this. Otherwise I'll have to hunt down a good 1g piston.
All input is appreciated, especially from the you old school dsmers that have more experience than I do when it comes to dsms.

I will be putting my 2g head on the 6 bolt block. In class I will bore out the bolt holes in order to fit the 1g arp headstuds I will be using.

I have a set of 1g 7:1 pistons I can trade u for those 2g 8:1 if u want, I'm doing the a 6 bolt swap also, I have 3 good 2g pistons and one with the landing squished a bit so I'm lookin for a 2g set, let me know if ur interested.

-Dominican-

To do a proper rebuild you would need to get that block machined, new oversized pistons, new rings and bearings, etc. The cost is kind of high for and comparable to doing a rebuild with forged pistons/rods. If you don't want to machine the block you won't know for sure that the rings will seal correctly. I did evo pistons on 1g rods a while back and it worked alright till a rod snapped. If you're going this route you might want to go with evo pistons over 2g since they are stronger and will fit the same once the rods are machined.

PS. That article does not pertain to you, since you have a 2g.

Thanks for clearing things up. I might just go ahead and go with 1g pistons after all.
As far as the machine work, I can do that in class. I'll be checking for cylinder wall out-of-round, deck warpage, ring gap clearance, piston-to-wall clearance, etc.. As long as everything is within spec, I can get by with just new bearings and rings, according to my instructor who used to work at Shelby.
I'm on a tight budget, so whatever I can get away with, I will to make it cheaper on me. I wont have to pay for any machine work since i can do it in class, so that helps me out alot financially. It would be nice to do a proper rebuild with everything new, but my finances don't allow that right now.

Hey dustin, as far as rod/main bearings and rings from parts dinosaur, is the quality comparable to oem since he does claim oem spec parts? I mean, as far as hp figures, are the parts dinosaur parts good between 300-350hp, or is oem the better alternative? Frank recommended me to get the bearing and rings from pd, and I've ordered timing belt kits from pd with no problems, but I'm not too sure about the quality of his parts when it comes to something as crucial as crank/rod bearings.
Maybe you have some previous experience with an eninge build using pd parts and the quality/reliability of them.

this block you have is mint core for a build its my old one i dont think you need to go oversize

Yeah bro, all of the main bearings look real good. I hot tanked the block last night. The outside of the block was all filthy with road grime. It's all nice and clean now.