Alright, so after almost 2 years, I'm ready to wake my 2g eclipse from it's long slumber. I inherited the car from my uncle,who was the first and only owner of the car. (it's a 99) Aside from being the first and only, he took excellent care of it. it's been sitting in my back yard and every once in a while I go and sit in it because it even has that new car smell still. I pulled the motor and trans out because the car gave out and have,with this past year and a half, been slowly piecing all the parts to rebuild it. I've gotten almost all new OEM parts down to the water pump,oil pump and any other whatever bolts and even washers. This motor,for the most part being 99%, will be like buying a BRAND NEW motor off the mitsubishi factory floor. Nothing like rebuilt.lol I'm at a point now where I'm really thinking about where I'm going to take this build and that's where I want some serious input from anyone with great hands on experience,or just anyone who can provide great input.

So what I want from this car (my goal) is to have an everyday car that,if what you guys have to say sways me, has a little more power than a stock but still maintaining the reliability of a stock car. I'm not looking to push it,just wanna know that if I ever need to I can. I plan on driving the car from Pasadena (626) up to washington next summer. And I wanna know that I made all the right, and very informative, decisions to get to and back.

Only thing I can add to everything stock is that I bought a set of NPR coated pistons with piston rings. Stock size. Plan on keeping same rods as my machinist is shot peening them for me and doing all necessary work to strenghten them. Besides that,all I have planned so far is the fact that I will be upgrading to a 16g. I have read threads on what turbos and what mods and what whatever I need for every which what situation. but I haven't seen a thread with a very specific situation like mine asking for very specific info that is somewhat vague in a sense,so please no rude comments and offer me your honest BEST input. Thanks!

Sorry for the lenghty post

Your plan sounds good, I would use ARP head studs simply because they are cheaper than new factory ones. And to go with that 16G get a wideband air fuel gauge, fuel injectors, fuel pump and something to tune the car (ECMlink, flashable ecu, etc....) and you will be set to safely make a decent amount of power and have a great daily driver.

Thanks for the info. I've heard that once I upgrade to the 16g the fuel system should come with it. Any recommendations on what fuel pump and such? One question I had is, I've heard that the ARP studs are not stretch bolts and the OEM are. Doesn't that make them more prone to failure in case of extremem heat conditions? Either way thanks for the input. Keep it coming guys! Remember, all the input you guys provide WILL all be taken into consideration to make the best set up.

Stretch bolts means they are torque to yield and they can only be used once

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They are not meant to stretch with changes in the block/head. The stretching is how they are "torqued", they are not torqued like other bolts. You tighten all the head bolts and then you give them all another partial turn and then they "stretch" which evens out the clamping loads on them. If they stretch more after they reach their yield limit then they are no good. The ARPs don't stretch when you torque them so you can re use them and they can be torqued down more than stock bolts which can help prevent the head from lifting or the head gasket blowing under higher boost.

First off, whats wrong with it now? If anything, dont even crack it open. Just do maintenence. cal it done. If its got good compression now, I wouldnt bother taking it apart. Just do gaskets, hoses, seals, and belts.

Going into this with a lack of knowlege is setting yourself up. I've yet to see anyone do thier first build and have it come out perfect no matter how much info you have.

the motor is dead and out already. I'm in the stage of putting it back together now. I know What I'm doing,just don't know the facts about every single thing. What I'm asking input on is just making this build a great one. the reason I ask for help as far as input is because I'm new to DSM scene (converted from Honda.) So I would preffer to have input on a build others in the field already have some experience with. I'm going to install a new bigger turbo (big 16g MHI),ingtercooler,new fuel set up and such. What I'd really love to get is the input on what works best or what you guys feel is a good quality product in combination with other products I'll use. as well as anything I can add-on. Sorry If it seems like each time I'm not clear enough on the help I want,but if we can all just stick to the topic on hand,which is more of a, what should be upgraded,what should be added,what should be used I guess. I've gotten some great advice,but If this turns out more into a lack of help and more of a "let's pick and criticize" I'll just take down the thread. Thanks everyone who's showing support and shooting great suggestions. Everything is appreciated.

Also,As I take everything into consideration and I make decisions,I'll update on here So you all know what I knocked down and what can be worked on still.

As of now

Balance shaft eliminator Kit
Will be getting an EVO III big 16g MHI
NPR standard size pistons

A Walbro 255HP fuel pump will be fine for what you want to do and more. You could get by with a 190 but if you are spending money on a pump I don't see a point in putting in one that might limit you later.

And to get to your power goals a set of 720cc injectors will be required to safely support 300+ whp on 91 octane. If you do a tuning solution like ECMlink then injectors kind of fall into the same boat as the fuel pump, unless you find a great deal on some 720 maybe 680cc injectors then you might as well get something like 1200 or 1600 that will give you room for a bigger turbo later if you decide or for a switch to e85.

You will need a fuel pressure regulator to go with that 255 too.

yea,I was already thinking of upgrading the pressure regulator and fuel rail,any suggestions on what I should get? Again,if you have personal experience on parts you all have bought that'd be great to hear

The stock fuel rail is fine for at least 500hp so you wouldn't need to change yours unless you really wanted a cool looking anodized one. As far as fuel pressure regulators go it seems that the two best ones are the aeromotive and the fuel lab. I have had a fuel lab one for several years with no problems on my car. I bought this setup with all the needed install parts. I have the bigger fuel lab regulator but only really because the mini didn't exist when I bought mine. I am running -6 fuel lines throughout the car.