I just purchased the Forced Performance Intake and when i removed the stock intake i noticed there were two hoses connected to it, underneath the recirculating tube. Do i just let those hoses hanging?

I did some research on DSMtuners but i couldn't really understand what the terminology they were using

This is also my first time to attempt to modify my car.
Sorry for the noob question but I really want to try to do it on my own and not pay someone to do this.

One of those hoses should be coming from your valve cover, this one works best if you put a fitting on the intake for it as the vacuum from the intake will help scavenge air out of the crank case. But if you don't want to modify the intake and you are running mostly stock boost you can run that line to a vented catch can or even just put a small filter on the valve cover where the line is so dirt can't get in there.

Off the top of my head I think the other line goes to the Boost Control Solenoid. I'm not sure if you can just unplug this one if you are not already using a manual boost controller. Hopefully somebody who actually remembers what those lines do can chime in.

I have seen those small filters. Do you know by any chance where i can buy one?Maybe at autozone?.

I don't have a boost controller yet(do i need one?) and everything is stock on my car. Appreciate the help SOADweskey

You can get those small filters at autozone.

I really don't remember how the factory boost control solenoid works but if that line goes to it you might be best off getting a manual boost controller so you don't have to worry about it. But don't put in a boost controller without a boost gauge.

So i wont be able to install the intake until i buy the boost controller/gauge and small filter.

Also i wasn't aware that i needed an adapter to install the 4" K&N filter to the MAF. So i had to order it from Autozone

You can install it, I was just checking my technical manual and one of the lines from the intake pipe definitely goes to the boost control soloniod. You can just go run the line straight from the compressor housing to the waste gate actuator. It might lower the boost you run a bit though as I think the factory BCS raises it.

Check out this diagram I put red x's through what you can take out. Make sure not to leave that t open though of course.


I would get a manual boost controller and a boost gauge as soon as possible.

So you suggest going with the manual boost controller instead of the electric boost controller. because i was looking at the AEM Tru-Boost Boost Controller/Gauge Combo from Road Race. It looks nice or is that just a waist of money?

The MBC from there is good cause its cost efficient, but the electric is good because its easily accessible to the driver. but if you'd like to spend about 250 more dollars to be able to do it in the comfort of your own seat with out having to open your hood then that's cool. i would love to have it if i had the money to spend you get me?

So you are currently using the MBC? If so what brand

ya i'm using it, its the the dejon one of RRE's website, it works perfectly fine. Considered getting it?

I really want the EBC

But thinking about the money i can save with the MBC. i can use the extra cash to by the boost gauge and gauge housing

Thanks dsmchevyguy

ya its a lot dont you think, i figure later along the lines say if you get like a 60 trim then get it you know what i mean?

I dont plan on going 60 trim. i wast thinking more like a 16g

but thanks for the help

oh ya then i think you're fine with just that mbc, you should leave the funds towards your 16g : )

Like he said a manual and a gauge will be the most bang for the buck. I personally have a Greddy ProfecB spec II electronic boost controller mostly because i wanted to be able to change from pump gas boost to e85 boost at the touch of a button.