The time is almost here when I begin my build..

2.0 forged 7-bolt.

I pretty much have everything down and ready to go, the only part that still hasn't sinked in is the break in process.

Yes, i've read like 10 different articles and threads about the process and so far this is what I have down...

1. Prime/lube ALL moving parts in engine.
2. At start up, let idle until it gets to complete operating temperature and CHECK CHECK CHECK for leaks, BUT don't let idle for too long or premature wear will occur on the rod bearings?
3. Take it out for a spin, drive it like it was meant to be driven.
4. Make a couple of hard pulls from 2-4th gears but don't punch it too hard ideally from 2-4.5k and let the RPM's drop.
5. Repeat process for about 10-12 times.
6. Change oil with regular oil at about the 50 first miles.
7. Change oil " " again at about 100 miles.
8. Change oil " "at about 300 miles.
9. Change oil " " at about 500 miles.
10. Change oil with your usual synthetic brand at the 3k miles and enjoy the new motor.

During the process no highway speeds should be gained, the best break in process is to load the motor with different loads: shift often, break often and DONT stay at a constant speed for a prolong period of time.

Pretty much this is what I have down from reading countless threads and articles regarding this process.
If I left out anything at all, please feel free to comment.
Thanks.

I'd heard that it was best to perform the first oil change 20 miles in, and the subsequent one didn't really need to be until 500 miles in. An extra few oil changes can't hurt, except your wallet, i guess, but you might want to do the first one earlier on to get rid of any little metal particles floating around in the oil as soon as it gets in there. Both the easy and hard break-in guides I've read suggest that.

Also do alot of driving around in 2nd gear up hills and down hills and whatnot. The motor needs to be under load so the rings will seal fine. I did that on my old rebuild 7 bolt perfect compression ratio on all 4 cylinders. I did my first oil at 20miles using regular oil then I did it at 100 then 300 then 500. Also make sure you use most of your rpm band and don't stay in the same rpm for long periods of time. Engine braking is perfect for breaking in motor drive in gear and just let the rpms drop.

Agree with above comments. Use engine braking a lot to put deceleration load in addition to acceleration load on the engine. You can go highway speeds, just up and down shift frequently to avoid maintaining a constant cruise rpm. I followed this process and have driven the engine fairly hard for the last few years and still have 195 compression across the board.

Got it!
Thanks!

This is how i did my oil changes
In order to prime the motor correctly you must use a hand pump to pump oil in through the oil filter housing until oil is in the head (Clint has a writeup somewhere on how to do this). After you do this i suggest spraying some wd40 inside the cylinders through the spark plug holes as added lubrication between the new rings and cylinder wall when you initially crank the motor for oil pressure. Don't use a whole bottle though, just a quick spray should do the trick. Pull the Engine fuse in the fuse box and Crank the motor until your oil pressure light goes off, and even more after if you'd like just for safety. After this you're pretty much ready for your initial start up and drive.

-Right after initial start up and drive around the block
-100 miles
-500 miles
-1200 miles

You can't do too many oil changes during this time, the more the better. Control load on the motor is key, not too much boost 5psi or so is ok but no 30psi pulls just yet.

It's more dependent on heat cycles, not really miles.

So, when exactly should the headbolts be retorqued?

Also, I took the head and block to the machinist I told him to bleed the lifters but he insisted that they don't have to be bled.
Any comments on this?

You always bleed the lifters before putting in the cams. After followings the head torque sequence recommended by the head stud manufacture, i will then recheck the torque on fasteners after 750-1000 miles.

Ronnie

"shut up, it's my money"

^^^ X2, on that.. What machine shop did u take it?

Bleed your own lifters, i don't think I've meet a machine shop guy who bleed lifters for a customer.

I took the head and block to Precision in SP, I've heard many good reviews about them. And honestly, I don't trust a machine shop in Oxnard.
The block looks better than brand new, I could literally eat off of it and the head came out great as well.
When I picked up the motor I told him about it again and he did it...but the wrong way?
He used that giant clamp thing that's usually located in the corners of tables..he compressed each lifter to see if any oil would come out but I saw that nothing came out of any of them. He said that's how they are bled, but I've seen some articles on how to do so and that's completely different compared to what he did.