Okay I will just the timing and prime it while its outside. Oh yeah wes I read the wtb thread I have the part you need you can have it since you helped me out with the tool and gave me free cams lol. I just need to find it first tho if not then you can buy jram's.

prime it while its out and prime it again it. You wont hurt anything over priming it other than your starter and battery. Cheaper than a motor. Keep priming it till you see oil squirting around in the cylinder head if you take the oil cap off and look. then do it some more.

if this is a fresh motor, ONLY USE Conventional dinosour oil. NO SYNTHETIC!
Dont let it idle for long, fire it up, let it idle till its warm then GO DRIVE IT!
You want to varyt he RPM, use most of the rpm band, quick jabs at the throttle but no WOT. take it up to 4.5~5K rpms and let it engine brake back down. do this over and over a 3/4 times.
Drive it for 50 miles, take it home, change the oil and filter.
Take that filter and cut it open carefully and inspect it for debris. A little is normal
After this, just proceed to drive it normally, but avoid staying at one RPM range for long periods of time, keep it varying, up shift down shift if you are on the freeway. Engine brake, engine brake, and more engine braking. and NO SYNTHETIC OIL!
After 250 more miles, change the oil again, inpect the filter again, if should have less.
Continue the driving routine till 800~1000miles total, change the oil again and inspect the filter. Do a compression test, you should be close to 170psi across the board, if so, you can switch to synthetic and have fun beating the piss out of it.

Woke up really late today so I tried finishing it up today but there is one ARP headstud that does not want to go in im guessing the thread is damage on the block or it's to dirty in there build up of something. I have zero experience on using a die or tap but that's my only option right. 9 studs fit perfectly I was like yes then the last gave me trouble F**K.

hey wally which stud didn't want to go in...? is it on the intake side, closest to the cam gear..?

Naw chris I didn't send the motor I bought from you to get rebuild. My old motor is what giving problems and I don't know what to do now about that damaged thread thing. If I can fix that then its done I can put the motor in and start driving it around.

Does anybody here have a set I can borrow to try to fix this. Anyone.

I have a cheap Chinese Harbor Freight tap/die set...not sure if I'd trust it on critical engine work though...

MY MOTOR IS IN!!!!


Well guys im happy to say my ARP head stud issue is resolved and finished it up put on the timing covers all 3 pieces welded shut . Now putting in the motor bolting it up to the tranny as I write. Just need to hook up lines water hoses all these misc crap. Now I have another probel my oil return line is bent and yeah I have no way of getting one unless anyone here has one for sale or a new one they would like to sell. Im pretty happy about this going really good. taking a small break. Well just thought I would let you guys know me showing up to the meet is a BIG chance. I should fire up the motor tomorrow and then see how the car runs.

I have one

Cool how much do you want for it Jerry hook it up I gave you PIZZA haha jk. How much I just need that to get my motor running and im golden. Oh yeah when I was turning the oil pump gear with the drill I never knew it through oil like that haha. One straight line of oil shot straight up in the air right on top of me haha.

Well guys I got my motor running im am officially back on the road all my hard ass work and money payed off. Engine idles at 750 with bogging or anything. After the lifter tick went away you could barely hear the engine idling. The machine shop and some guy that helped me out with the knock sensor said to let it idle for 4 hours . They wouldnt let me drive it or turn it off it idled for around 40 min I was yelling shit left and right to turn the fuckin car off and let me drive it but no. I did manage to finally turn it off after those 40 fuckin minutes. I told them if this fucking motor has no compression im paying shit to get this fixed you guys are responsible for this. My car is off and one of my tires is crap it just leaks air so I cant drive it. I am pretty pissed that they told me to let it idle for 4 hours so the rings would sit and the engine would sit. I don't have much experience with this but I know for a fact your not suppose to let it idle for 4 hours. How do I know if the engine is already fucked up it idles perfect with no blowby or rpms boggin up and down nothing.

I would guess that your motor is fine. Just still drive it easy and engine brake and stuff to make sure you seat the rings when you do drive it. And congratulations.

Man cause of this im so fucking excited you guys have no idea all the trouble problems errors and mistake I have made made me better at this. 2 complete swaps in a 1 month lol. A complete evo3 motor swap and a rebuild 7 bolt swap . I did manage to drive it pumped up the tire that was bad and lasted a good 10 miles up and down hill engine braking and like sam said using most of the rpm band. I kept it in 2 since im auto and drove around with no hood or front bumper . Only 990 miles to go. Oh yeah the reason I came home was I was over heating a lil bit. I can hear water bubbling on the lower radiator hose and the water line on the turbo that comes from the water pipe. What does this mean.Oh yeah thanks wes for those kind words lol. I should congratulate myself with some PIZZA!!!!lol

He didn't have a gun to your head.