^^^^^ this is what Christ means by useless posts.

Fast, cheap, reliable.
Pick two.

Just so you know, new OEM Main bearings are $120 and new OEM Rod bearings are $90.

OEM Mitsu .020 over pistons are $70 each

OEM Mitsu Ringsets are $180

YOU WILL NEED A NEW OIL PUMP!!!!!

OEM Mitsu Oil pump w/ gears PN# MD327450 $250

All these parts are BARE MINIMUM for a rebuild. Parts alone will be $740
Machine work and labor to put it all together.

Don't know how your guy is doing $500

In life, you get what you pay for. For the most part.

This build is something I can afford beside if something fails warranty covers it. It did seem odd at first but hey all I can do right now but I know you guys keep saying go 6 bolt but im auto I will need the kiggly kit and its 300 buxs plus shipping its not worth it to me if I go 5 speed later and 6 bolt you know. As long as this build last me for 2 months or more im going for a complete rebuilt 6 bolt and rebuild awd tranny thats why this is my only option. I can pay what 1k plus for oem rebuild for parts on a 7 bolt that im am going to probably get rid of later so yeah as long as this build holds then so be it. My folks said its cool now but the manager is on my ass about getting the car out I can't keep the car in the back yard for months. If the manager didn't say anything I would not be getting the rebuild but I have no choice my stupid neighbor complaints that she gets mad just seeing the car there and complains the car spills oil.

with a build like the one your thinking of getting your just going to find yourself in this same bad spot again warranty or no warranty that's the wrong attitude to have. save money up and do it right or dont do it at all. just my 2cents

I understand the way everyone is saying 6 bolt and all but I think what wally wants is something to hold him over while he builds his 6bolt and gets all the parts for his 5speed swap...not to down your car or anything but if they converted it to awd they might as well have gone 5 speed

I do appreciate what everyone is saying but look at it this way I will be able to say this in the future. I built this car I made it 5 speed I put this on there this is my creation if I do get it rid of it and buy another one the only thing I can say is I bought this car. I know what im doing doesn't seem right but hey its my call and its my car. Me having this engine rebuilt is a good thing I will be saving up to buy a 6 bolt and build it from the ground up get my 5 speed swap parts and do it right the second time. Well today I dropped off my engine to get it rebuild and I should be back on the road tuesday or wednesday. The only reason I felt comfortable with this shop is as soon as I dropped the engine they said oh 4g63 right yyyeeesss. Bought the new oil pump and I didnt go to the shop were jose was telling me to go I found here around were I live. It cost a lil bit more but they actually know these engines.

I've been down that same road before. Don't say we didn't warm you.

I know eric but I have no other option I can't keep borrowing cars left and right to get to work. Since my parents use both cars to get to work and they leave earlier then me. There jobs requires them to drive from place to place. I can't keep the car here for so long. Once this build is done I can say 1 month top or more I will have a fully rebuilt 6 bolt and 5 speed swap parts.

How would you guys go about starting a rebuild engine and priming the oil pump I have seen RRE about removing the oil pressure sender and using some tube and a hand pump. Im reading up on this as we speak but I want to see how you guys did it. Eric since youre the only one I know right now that is breaking in there engine how are you going about this.

I did it both ways. I First put oil through the oil pressure sending unit. Clint acutually told me about it and posted it on my 6bolt motor build thread. So after that I primed it some more by 'cranking' the engine over like 7 times. Fired it up and it was good to go. So far I've got about a 300 miles on it. which reminds me oil change time tomorrow. Anyways, I drive it normal. Not too fast, not too slow. Nothing above 4.5K rpm. and i try to keep it under 70pmh on the freeway. Before i actually went some where with the car i drove it up and down the hills where i live. went around like 40 times. Leaving it in gear going down hill, and still doing lots of downshifting and putting 'load' on the motor.

focused on how to prime the pump if you receive a built motor from a shop with the timing belt already installed. If you do the build yourself, I believe the proper way is to put oil in the engine before putting the timing belt on, and spin up the oil pump drive gear w/ a drill. ...is this right? (sorry to lazy to look it up at 1:30am) =P

^^^Correct Clint, drill with correct socket will do it. BTW, only 800 break-in miles beating the piss out of it with dyno & track runs, showing 175 across the board

MY REBUILT MOTOR IS HOME PICKED IT UP SATURDAY


Well today I finished putting the short block together brackets lines oil pump housing all the other good stuff. I was going to finish it but I didn't feel good using a felpro head gasket for some reason. So tomorrow im heading out to RRE picking up a OEM headgasket and go from there. Oil pump is primed. Now just cleaning things up and tomorrow on my agenda iiisss put the head on on the block before while im at RRE buy the arp head studs again do I need to buy them again if yeah I thought you werent suppose to reuse the same headbolts.

Couple of question

1. What oil should I use?
2.Should I redo the timing while the motor is outside or inside?
Reason for this question is can I do the timing outside and prime the motor by spinning the gear with a drill and then put the motor in and crank it or should I do all of that when the motor is in.

You can re-use ARP head studs but not stock ones.

And I would prime it and do the timing while it is out of the car.