I cant make up my mind ?

What am gonna do to my trans is ....

drive it to the meet,drag race it with my two step launch and drive it far like to san diego or something I have been shoping it seems like TRE like to use evo internals. Sheps claim that It can shift to 10,000 RPM stage 4. Jacks well thats another choice they are all in the $2300 range but whats more BANG for the dollar

I love my TRE trans but I think Jerry ended up paying less with Jack. I would say that you won't be let down by a TRE trans if you get one, I beat the hell out of mine and it just loves it.

I have a Stage 2 build with 10% taller fifth, double synchroed first, and HD shift rails. I took them about one week to rebuild it. It took about two and a half weeks total, 5 days shipping there, about a week to rebuild it, and 5 days shipping it back.

I was also really happy with there shipping setup they have too. They sent me a box with foam inserts already set up all I did was put my trans in a bag and drop it in the box for UPS to pick up.

No I didn't, I am going to upgrade to a quaife in the near future.

I didnt vote for any of them. They all are good, in the end its all the same. OEM Mitsubishi gears, made love to in different ways. Whether it be Cryo, shot peen, polish and all that jazz. Its still the stock gears. They all have their own top secrete shimming specs that makes the difference between a trans that shift like tits or ass. But they all are good at what they do, the thing that will make me go with one or the other is their customer support and whether they see you as a customer or a dollar sign.

I agree with Sam, all OEM guts inside. Sooner or later even a "built" trans will let go. Then there's a dogbox...but that's a whole different story.

BTW, I have TRE's stage 2.5 with a 4-spider & love it! If & when I get another it'll be a dogbox.

Throwing this one out, too:

About 9 months ago I was reading this article on a SE-R track build. They pulled the trans and coated the gears with this red stuff that helped out a lot when they took her to the track. I forget all of the details (it was 9 months ago lol). I still have the magazine laying somewhere, so I can bring it next Monday if you want to take a look at it. It could be a cheaper, yet still effective alternative since in fact, "race built" transmissions are stock guts like Sam had said.

And usually when transmissions die, its most of the time not gear failure, gears themselves are in constant mesh, if shimmed well, the get really good contact with each other but not bind from being too tight. When they are in perfect mesh you reduce if not eliminate shock loads seen by the gears themselves. When they are loose and have play, then you can see shock on the gears between shifts and big time on a launch. What sees the most shock load is the gears in the diff on a FWD. AWD its the Center is what takes the shock load. FWD/AWD front diff are same weakness, but the front on a AWD is only taking 50% of the shock, if that. FWD that's what takes it all and wheel hop doesn't add to its happiness.

I dont believe in any special coatings to help a gear take shock load. Hit somebody in the face with a baseball bat, you break his jaw. Now coat his face and hit him again, his jaw probably will break again. Only thing coatings will help with is friction. Less friction, less heat, happy trans, probably will help more in Road Racing than drag. Drag is like hitting the trans with a hammer each time you launch, no coating in the world will help.

Cryo treating, shot peening are the common things they do to increase gear strength. Its just a new high tech way of forging a part that was already cast. This actually changes the metal structure at a molecular level, making it stronger. Or its just Sci-fi.

+1 on what everybody has said. As far as customer service, I have had GREAT experiences with Jack, and I've heard equally great things about Shep. I've heard mixed on TRE. Some people have said TRE was nice while others have said they were complete a-holes.

As far as value, let me point out the on Jack's site. Most people dive right into the premium build, but if you read the description, the value build is recommended for up to 450hp, and it only costs $1,449.00. So, unless you're planning on running 450+hp, the value build should be enough. That includes the 4 spider center diff, which is one of (if not the most) important upgrade for the AWD transmissions. Also, note from the build sheet that all of the weak early transmission parts are replaced with improved parts that were put in the later models.

When it comes to gear choice, you can pick EVO III gears which are bigger and stronger, but limit the size of the synchros. I picked smaller DSM gears b/c I'm not planning on more than 400hp, but the smaller gears allowed Jack to put on the extra big synchros for better shifting at high RPM. I have to say, despite all the issues I've had w/ clutch drag, my car shifts like BUTTER at 7,500rpm WOT.

One thing you need to remember about all this is that your car is a 1990. Assuming you have a '90 trans, you'll be looking at additional fees no matter what shop you take it to. It will also limit what upgrades you can do (unless you convert to a later gearset). Be sure to discuss the limits/options of your '90 trans with your builder before shipping it off. IMO the transmission is the biggest weakness of the '90 DSMs...you're really screwed when it comes to having one of these shops do a rebuild for you.

+1 for Jacks. Great costumer service, they kept me updated with what was going on. The part that took the longest was waiting for a new 4th gear to come in. I did the basic rebuild and I'm FWD so the tires are gonna squeal like a pig before anything breaks. But I do launch it HARD at the drag strip every chance I get and I run REAL SLICKS, tires that like to grab harder than a fat kid holding on to a cupcake.

I had a KAAZ LSD that I sent with my tranny