Okay my fwd talon has been down for about a month now.
I've dropped the transmission in and out 7 times the past 7 days!
I'm having disengagement issues, at first i thought it was the flywheel
so i had my act street lite flywheel measured for the proper step height using RRE's specs.
secondly i though it was the comp 1620 clutch i got, so i swapped over to a vatozone clutch just to see. third pivot ball and fork and good, still couldn't get it into gear with the car on.
so i shimmed it, still didn't work. fourth got an extended rod and worked a little bit. only disengages on the floor. master and slave is brand new w/ ss braided line. still doesn't work.
now my clutch pedal has about an inch of play. This is my last resort. I'm calling shepracing and ordering a new pedal assembly. Has anyone ever bought this from them?

Nutshell
1. (new) master & slave (bleed like a mofo) <-- Still doesn't disengage
2.flywheel checked for proper step <---still doesnt work
3. comp 1620 clutch, xtd stage 1, vatozone clutch <-- Doesn't work
4. Master cylinder rod extended all the way In & Out <-- Still doesn't work
5. fork and pivot ball <---- Shimmed, replace with forge fork and pivot <--Still doesn't work
6.pedal pressure is good <--actually stiff as hell with the 1620 clutch
moderate with xtd
regular with vatozone clutch
7. swapped out a different transmission <-- Still doesn't work

8. MY LAST RESORT is paying up 220+shipping for a shep clutch pedal assembly

anything else i'm missing here?

Are you sure the flywheel is stepped correctly? Is the fork in the middle of the opening in the bell housing? Have you looked to see how far it moves when the pedal is pushed in?

Fork is centered. Ive tried everything. The slave doesnt travel all the way out. The clutch is dragging. i just got it to work so i can move it to a different parking space but i have to floor it.
I can rule out the step on the flywheel, pivot ball & fork, ive used 3 bottles of brake fluid to bleed the system.
im about to give up on this damn thing.

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Maybe try another slave, is the slave OEM?

Update: got it out ftw lol



After searching online and talking to gus, my problem is the clutch pedal assembly. The pedal itself has about an inch of play before i engages the mast cylinder rod. I think that inch of play is where my disengagement should be. The full travel from the floor to the top should be around 2.5 inches am i correct? I'm only getting about an inch and quarter of travel.
Wish me luck i'm going to remove it today. I know it going to be a PITA! FML!

Sounds like that's your problem. I bought a shep pedal setup and it worked great but it has worn a bit in a year (not sure how with welded lever, maybe shaft is twisting). The pedal does not come all the way up anymore, but I still have enough travel to shift smoothly. Shep might fix my pedal and send it back.

Also, ditch the extended slave rod and instead weld a nut onto the clevis that your master cyl rod threads into. That extends the throw the right way, but don't adjust too far or you'll block off the pressure relief hole on the master cyl and you'll get pedal pump up (bad thing).

Good luck. Ive replaced my pedal several times and I was very close to switching out to an aftermarket race pedal setup just to get around it.

I read that the relief valve on the master cylinder is only for a 2g. Its even on roadrace website. Correct me if im wrong. But yes im sending my pedal assembly.

Also it wasnt that bad to remove it. I think the hardest part was removing the brake booster all the way out without damaging the hard lines. I

As for now im out of the dsm game. Ill still go to meets, but ill be selling the awd shells i have. Im pretty much tired of the headaches. ill be posting all the Stuff i have for my awd. Im going to build this fwd the right way and replace everything from bushings to repainting it. the goes to say im out of the dyno contest unless i put the built motor on this fwd.


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From 3 cars to no cars... At least you'll have plenty of parking space now

Im keeping the red one and maybe 1 awd but thats in case. But im done with the headaches for now.

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Well im out for now. Im jus going to build the red fwd and probably use that for the dyno contest. Theres no point in having more than 1 dsm. Its just more of a headache. Ill be picking up a 95 mkiv by the end of the year and the fwd should be done by then. But, that should be another headache in the making.

I put too much blood, sweat, tears, and pain in my red talon i cant let that go, thats the first car i ever bought with my own money and its never been serviced by anyone but me.

Ill see you guys at the meets but dsm less lol.

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Looks brand new.

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Honestly after driving a FWD for about 7 yrs then driving an AWD for 2 yrs id recommend for you too concentrate on building the AWD unless you like doing burnouts cause after 350 whp that car dont grip. Unless you plan on investing a lot more money on drive train components to get a bit more traction but there nothing like hitting a cornor at 70 mph and still having control but good luck on which ever you build but at least you are gonna be patient and build it right cause thats how it should be done. Too many new booties think they can buy a DSM and right of the back its gonna be fast and reliable but all they do is make DSM's look like shit im going on 2 years now and bout 30,000 miles on this setup @ 450 awhp over a 100 track launches and countless st and freeway racing and i admit shit is still running strong to top it off just turned up my boost from 19 to 25 psi on 91 and no knock. My point is a good build will put in some work but dont forget these are high maintance machines. I run either VR1 synthetic 20/50 or mobile 1 15/50 and change my oil between 2000-2500 miles and i can say headaces havent been an issue for now but hay eventually are good things will come to an end one day. But damn i been putting it down hardcore letting as many cars as i can have it letting them know That DSM's still havent fell off the Map. Armins talon has been running great havent put on the hoosiers yet but man that shit feels good i pulled a 612 hp strecth on the freeway with it and man I love it best track time was 7.5 @ 81 mph 2.5 60 ft on st tires (shitty launch) and letting off the gas at 3/4 mark cause the other muscle car was all in his lane and only cut 7.2
@ 102. His two practices runs before that was 100 mph trap speeds so u should get the picture pretty soon will hit the track with hoosiers just tring to get the feel of 600 plus hp.

Keep DSM's on the map were the last of the dying breed soon wont be to many left..........

I'm going to put a built shep trans in it when I have everything dialed in. I still have a lot of things to put on it before the year ends. I know awd can hit a corner like nothing, I just put some k sport coil overs on my Quattro a4 and it grips, but nothing compared to the a7 even though its long as hell. I'm not trying to race the dsm, it's just going to be a fun car with traction issues hahaha.

I installed the pedal assembly and man my old tranny shifts way better. I still have a spare tranny from Jason, when everything gives out the shep trans is going in. I wish I had more time to work on cars, but my work schedule is crazy, I'm just going to concentrate on black ops 2 until the supra arrives. Plus my girl is complaining I spend more time working on my dsm than her lol. What can I do




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