Hey guys, so fixed all the boost leaks (aside from one small one coming from the BOV flange), installed 550cc injectors, 2g maf, etc. Now when I'm in boost it pulls a lot harder, only downside is it seems to lose power at around 5k rpms. Still accelerates, but very slow and can no longer hear my o2 dump. Shift gears, o2 dump is as loud as ever, pulls hard, until 5k comes around again. What are your thoughts?

Just gonna take it easy until I can afford a downpipe and a tuner of some sort. Just curious, my buddy has an SAFCII that he's gonna give me for free. Is it compadible with OBDI? Also, not going to install my wideband until I get the 3" DP just cause I don't feel like wasting money on welding a bung to this POS stock DP just to remove it next month

If it's free screw it, and it is compatible. You have to wire it directly into the ecu harness so it doesn't matter that the car is OBD1. However the AFC will be pretty useless without the wideband to tell you how the tune is going.

Hey guys, so last night my friend Chad and I spent the night working on the Galant. Origanally planned to just wire up my SAFCII but the car was idling really low (around 500-700) and weren't sure why. Tried adjusting the BISS screw using the grounding trick to no avail. Swapped out the IAC sensor, no luck. Changed a coupler that may have been leaking at the TB elbow, nothing.. Couple other things I forget. Well after a lot of fiddling with the throttle it now idles fine? But here's where the new problem comes in. So before it lost all power at 5k. Now it pulls all the way to redline... great! Not quite... Chad pointed it out, each gear the boost goes up. Starts at 12-14 in 1st, 15-18 in 2nd, and 20+ in 3rd. Haven't gone further as I don't want to risk detonating a healthy motor

A lot of people think it's my boost controller causing the issue, but why would it change each gear?

That's actually a great idea. I'll try bypassing the boost controller all together and see what happens. It's just a cute little 14b too haha

Posted on another forum.

"She does have bad boost creep.

Some stats of his car:
TD05 14B on what i believe to be a 7cm exhaust housing.
Modified Stock exhaust.
Two stage boost controller. TurboSx i believe.
2.5" piping around a large intercooler
2nd gen MAF
550cc injectors.
Vaccum system / Emissions deleted.

For the idle issue:
No matter what we do, the BISS doesnt adjust the idle at all. This has me screamin wtf for days.

As ninnyVR4 said, we tried grounding the system and adjusting the idle to the book.
Changed out ISC for the hell of it, Patched up any leaks we detected.
We changed out his BISS for a steel one i had laying around and we changed the o-ring.
Even tried using the SAFC2 +10% at the 1000rpm point to see if this would change anything.


Boost creep:
Mike, I have a MBC in the garage we can test on 852.
The only things I can think of is maybe its time for a wategate or porting if the MBC doesnt correct this.

Quote:

My boost is too strong! Is there a fix?
My boost won't stay where I set it - it keeps going up! Is there a fix?

This is called boost creep, and occurs when the turbo is pushing so much air that the wastegate, even when fully open, cannot dump all of the intake pressure. This results in a continual increase in intake pressure, and is common with upgraded turbos, especially with upgraded downpipes - the exhaust would rather flow through the turbo/exhaust than the more restrictive wastegate, which spins the turbo ever faster. Cars with this problem can develop mind-blowing (and engine-blowing) intake pressures in a hurry.

The general solution to this problem is to port the oxygen sensor housing, turbine housing and/or wastegate to allow them to dump more air. Otherwise minor malfunctions of the wastegate may also exhibit themselves as boost creep, such as poor travel on the wategate actuator arm. Some people use an external wastegate for better pressure control. "

Sure you can port out things and try to stop the creep.

But my solution has always been to just add more fuel and tune for more boost

The external dump you have should help eliminate boost creep though as it is a very low restriction outlet for the exhaust. Your wastegate actuator may not be working properly or maybe the wastegate passage in the turbine housing is simply to small.

that's weird I used to have my 14b with a 7cm evo housing and it never did that. I did have stock exhaust though. Most likely your going to have to port your turbo or go external.

Couple more thoughts from the other board.

"Boost creep on a 14b?!? I haven't run into this before.
Your engine is under a higher load in higher gears. Put simply, this causes cylinder pressures and temperatures to rise, which leads to higher exhaust gas velocity as it exits the cylinder, which then drives the turbo faster. This is why you see different pressures in different gears, with poor wastegate control.

I definitely wouldn't go spending money on an external set-up. You shouldn't need it, something else is going on, but definitely associated with boost control. How did you set your boost controller? Have you done a boost leak check? Make sure the waste gate itself can actuate freely, and also make sure your waste gate actuator is working properly. I'm wondering if the gate isn't fully opening. "

As for the exhaust. Previous owner just removed the resonator/cat/muffler. All I did was throw a Muffler on it to quiet it down. Plan to get a turbo back soon, just money is tight

Also, how would I go about checking the wastegate?

Generally, boost is set in 3rd gear due to getting as much load as you can at a safe speed. 1st and 2nd will be lower, and 4th will be slightly higher and so will 5th. Tell tale sign of creep is when it hits your sets boost, stays there for about a second and slowly starts climbing. Lets say you have a 14B and you set it at 14psi. 3000RPM you hit 14psi solid, and it stays there till about 4500RPM. Then it starts climbing slowly higher and higher as RPMS rise to 7K, by 7K you're seeing 20+ psi. That's creep. But if its just difference from gear to gear, that's just a load difference. Boost is LOAD DEPENDANT, not RPM, why you cant make 15psi of boost reving to 4K in neutral and why it spools faster climbing a hill.

One thing that may help is running the MBC close to the turbo, not stupid close where its hot, but definitely try to steer away from having 10ft of line to the controller, try staying closer to 3ft hose from the MBC to the wastegate actuator.

I wouldn't even know how to adjust the damn thing. Right now it's sitting right next to my MAF. Starting to wonder if maybe I messed with the settings just by mmoving it around from time to time to get access to certain things. If anyone can chime in on how to go about adjusting it, it's a 2-stage controller from TurboXS

In an AWD car the dual stage is not really needed and I've had issues in the past with a turbo xs boost controller. A simple single stage ball and spring boost controller is more what you need. There are some plans around for how to make your own at home depot but I'm to lazy to search right now.

Here are the instructions from turbo xs on how to adjust yours.