Never heard of a rwd car run 11's on street tires?

Corvette zo6-11.7 1/4 mile stock

Porsche 911 turbo- 11.7 1/4 mile stock

Viper srt10- 11.7 1/4 mile stock

And this is from a magazine from 2007 and these are numbers from the factory. So unless the factory puts racing slicks on cars, which I've never heard of, these are cars running 11's in the 1/4 on street tires.

Oh and if your crying about these cars being super cars and hav ing outrageous hp and tq numbers. The porsche is very close in comparison to 97spyderGS' rx7. 480hp and 457tq.

By the way his rx7 wasn't some garage built one, it was fully built and tuned by a company that specializes in rotory engines, specifically the rx7.

So by all means before you guys start whining about showing time slips and making statements that you can't back up, stick to what you know, and stick to the topic.

Jerry's post was edited because all he asked was if the car was a V8.

And I've seen all the magazine numbers on those cars too but I have also seen a new Z06 at the track run consistent low 13's. That was most likely the driver just not being able to get the most out of the car but I have never seen if the magazines don't use nicer tires to get the best times out of it.

Also it is bad car forum etiquette to post either dyno numbers or 1/4 times on any site without the sheets and slips to back them up. I'm sorry if you are the most trustworthy person on the earth but a million stupid dip-shits posting fake numbers over and over again have ruined it for all of us.

Now, back to the topic at hand, I don't think any member on this board has swapped a 4G63 into a 4G64 car. There is one inactive member who did the head swap and turboed it but I think he is deployed right now so he won't be posting for a minute.

Take the advise form the first couple of posts and check out the sites that might have members with first hand experience and let us know how it goes and stick around so you can hopefully help the next guy that comes along with the same questions.

Back on Topic, Harness wise will depend on what sensors you will be using. If you are going to build a 2.3 (63 motor with 64 crank) you will need to clearance the main girdle for the longer stroke. I would recomend using the turbo harness with turbo ECU, due to fuel and timing maps for turbo applications are a whole world different than NA timing and fuel maps.

To concure with Clint, I wasn't saying you were car illiterate, just passing general info. I'm just trying to steer you away from building a 2.3 if you don't need one. Everyone jumps on the "displacement bandwagons" they hear 2.3 and automatically think its better. 2.0/2.3 have their pros and cons. Just asking if you already weighed them out. I personally would rather stick to a 2.0. My ideal setup is based on flow. You can increase volume or flow, I'd rather go 2.0, a turbo that will make power at 4K, and continue to make power up into 9K. Valvetrain, balanced rotating assembly, tight tolerences. I plan on spinning my motor to 9. Not saying a 2.3 can't do it, it just puts more strain on it.

I just got a comment about tires, And i just wanna say that mickey thomson makes slick thats r st legal. they would be E/T streets. There for i believe a rwd st car can go 11's...And up here in Santa Clarita were i live i see thoose tires being run alot So they must be good street tires aswell...

im not crying or butt hurt, someone edited a post and is retarded whatever, case closed. And to illegal thanks for getting back on topic. I guess i just gotta weigh my options and see what makes sense, i just really dont want to have to swap harnesses because my side skirts are molded and i cant remove my fenders so would have to work the harness from the wheel wells and dont want to do that. I can say whatever i do i will keep everyone posted, and possibly if my car is ever done, make it to a meet.

If i remember correctly the member on here who did the 63 head swap had some major wiring to do because he keeped his 64 harness. I honestly would think it would be a whole lot easier to swap out the harness and figure out 3 switches over all the wiring in the engine bay.

Just get your self a turbo-spyder that be easier

Me and 97spyderGs are doin this together, we just did my engine swap engine from a 97 gst to a 96 body, and we had to switch just the eingine wiring harness (if you don't know, the engine wiring harness seperates from the engine bay wiring harness, for headlights, fans, oil pressure wires) I was able to keep the 96 engine bay harness but had to swap the actual engine harness and everything worked wonderfully.

I'm assuming, and this is just my opinion, that if we just switch the engine wiring harness and ecu that it wil still connect to the engine bay harness and everything will be good. This would eliminate the problem of having to work under the fenders.

Would any of you guys have any input as far as that plan goes?

You don't have to pull the fender to get to the engine harness. I comes through the firewall under the battery.