My water pump is spitting out coolant. so time to replace that crap, why not replace the whole timing belt components as well.
Haven't done it before so hopefully i don't F*** Up lol.
any suggestions

i'm looking into extermepsi for their timing belt kit for $250
plus a gate water pump for $55

i really don't want to buy that tensioner tool so if someone has one that i can borrow that would be great.

so much for my coilovers all the money is going to this crap

i would suggest an oem water pump...my mechanics have told me to use an oem water pump instead of the "racing" water pump...

i read online that gates makes the oem water pump for Mitsubishi. so the gates water pump should be similar since they are from the same manufacturer

so why is the OEM pump from the dealership or the vendors price is $160 while the brand name gates pump $60. is it because its a generic brand but same manufacturer.

try maperformance. http://www.maperformance.com/complete-d ... t-kit.html. you can get oem oem adjustable hydraulic tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, water pump with gasket, and your choice of timing belt for give or take $300 depending on which bolt you get and if your motors a 6 bolt or 7.

i went with stm for $329 shipped
gates 6 bolt water pump
timing belt kit
and some ratchet tool for the timing tensioner

I know you got beef with me. But if its your first time, I highly suggest having someone there that has done it before to help wit it... I learned the hard way, after trying myself and fucking up 2 heads... But yea man good luck with it...

Just make sure before you start the enging to get an 1/2" socket wench and rotate the crank a few times past TDC just to be safe and after make sure your back at TDC and everything looks just how you put it together. hopefully dont have balance shafts.

and if you a running big HP who cares about the brand. Me i like to use what works. dont forget about crankseal and cam seals cause that would suck if they started leaking a week after you put it together.

rebuilding everything on the car.
head pulled off
waiting for all parts to come in to put everything together.
it doesn't seem that hard to put the timing stuff back together.
dsm is up on stand and got a 97 camry for 1500bucks! rolling in a camry for a bit.
best thing is it gets 30mpg!!!

Camrys are the shit =]
My bros 98 Camry is at 223,000 miles and that thing still runs beautiful and don't leak. That's my back up car when the DSM is down.

The OEM pump is made by a japanese company, not gates. However i have used aftermarket water pumps with success. As far as the belts go and the rest of the timing components i only go OEM.

Gus

finally got my timing belt kit from stm
they said all i need to do this job is a snapper wrench
i pretty much have read vfaq over and over again.

from my knowledge
put align all marks so piston #1 is on TDC (which is pretty easy, the 6th revolution lined up everything)
now my question is since im putting a new auto tensioner do i really need that rod tool to compress my old auto tensioner.
some one told me that the proper tension on our cars is that you should be able to put back the grenade pin on the auto tensioner once you have set the right tension on the pulley.

so what i'm about to do is just unbolt the auto tensioner without compressing the rod because its junk anyways, this way all the slack is there to remove the tbelt.

remove the old tensioner pulley

replace my water pump
put the new pump
bolt up the new tensioner pulley (but not tightened)
bolt up the new auto tensioner
put the new tbelt
mark sure everything is lined up
and adjust the tensioner pulley exactly to how my old pulley was
and just release the grenade pin off the auto tensioner??? (this is where i'm in doubt)


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-te ... ement.html

found my answer. right?

Correct me if am wrong someone... But Im sure your right when the Pin goes back into the auto tensioner... Its the tensioner pulley wich is supposed to set the tension, And if am correct the auto tensioner is there more as a back up for if the tensioner pulley loosen's tension..

So yea am sure that the correct way if the grenade pin should go back in smoothly the same way it came out....