Injector size of 650 -750 would be fine and burnt either for a 2g, evo or 3" GM MAF sensor. The main rev limit preferably a bit higher than stock. Thanks for looking!

I have link v3 with ecu and gm maf with plug n play harness.

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Link is a fine piece of equippment but $$.

This is probably not a very good way to go about this, you will not only have to match the injector size but the brand as well, you are better off finding someone that can burn a chip to your needs rather than finding a chip that's already made and trying to find the correct injectors and stuff to match it.

Oh.. haven't thought of that one. By brand you mean the difference between pintle and disk types or that every single brand has its specifics? I was thinking that noone seems to run Densos any more and those were pintles. The FIC/PTE are both disk variety and are the most common it seems. What else is out there? RC's are disk types, at least the newer ones if I 'm correct. Siemens, not sure about those. Would dead on time be different between say disk types with similar flow rates? PM me if you don't mind. Probably not a good idea to type all this in the classifieds section.. Sorry about that.

Just save your money and get link. In the long run it will save you more money, time, and headaches.


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OK, thanks everybody! I guess I 'll look into a new chip then. I have a link on my other car and the chip is for the daily driver. Can't justity to shell out that kind of money for something with mild set up that I won't be pushing much but I may regret it who knows. I had a car back in the day with Denso 660s, hacked to hell 1g sensor, afc, 272, stock non eprom ecu and PTE scm61 The thing was far from perfect but drove OK, didn't stall and was relatively quick. Was a PITA to tune of course. My main obfective is to get away from stupid, spiky stock ignition maps but I may be missing some other parts of the equasion so to speak.

Late reply here but I'd stay away from a burnt chip, as no two DSMs are alike and you'll need to fine tune around the burnt chip which means you'd need an AFC or something...at which point you're WAY better off getting something like 'Link. You're best budget alternative is getting the Ostrich chip emulator and using software such as Jackal or Tuner Pro. It's even better if you can find a used Ostrich (make sure it's the Ostrich 2 though).

Thanks for the tip! I do have an AFC actually somewhere in my parts boxes.