so i sold my gst to buy a gsx. big mistake. my gst was running just fine with no problems whatsoever. the gsx didnt even make it home before it started overheating on the freeway. when i test drove it, it seemed to be in good running condition on the streets. it wasnt until after i paid and decided to drive it home that it crapped out on me. it was partially my fault for not paying attention to the gauges on the way home and ASSuming all was good, and partially previous owner's fault for forgetting to mention that it needed a new radiator cap. when i did look at the gauges, it was too late. i exited the freeway by coasting off with the engine off key on. i had to turn it on again to get it into a parking lot, and when i did, i hear a nasty rattling on startup. so i got it into a gas station parking lot and ended up getting it towed home. anyways, i spent the weekend removing the head to see the damage, and lo and behold, i found a broken piston and about half of the valves bent . i was hoping i was just going to need a head, but no, now i need a whole longblock. after speaking with wally and frank, they mentioned that there may be a member selling a 7 bolt longblock for $800, but i searched the forums and didnt find anything.
i sold my daily driver for an awd and ended up having to use my uncle's car that he has for emergencies. anyways, if anybody has a good working 7 bolt longblock, hit me up at (909)236-4185.
i would like a 6 bolt swap, but i already have a spare 6 bolt non turbo longblock at my parents house in texas that i have plans for building and possibly dropping into my newly acquired gsx. but thats in the future. i figure itll be cheaper and faster to just get a 7bolt to drop right in so i can have a car again and return my uncle's clunker back to him.

oh yeah, also if anybody has a spare transmission mount bracket and driver's side axle, ill be needing those as well.

to bad to hear your story man!!! but u never know what u get on the street!!! hey but i might help u text me in the afternoon to see if i can get u one i can call some shops in santa ana that might have one or do u want yours rebuilt?? i can get u good discounts with headmasters and BCM they dont charge me labor just parts text me 7146020307 and i might get u a good price on that half shaft and the transmission bracket!!!

I didn't want to start a new thread, so I'll just continue on this one I had already started.
I finally got my car running. Thanks to the Oxnard guys for selling me a 7bolt block and head at a very low price. I ended up ordering an engine gasket kit from partsdinosaur.com and replaced all the gaskets and seals in the engine. Some of the old gaskets had already dried and stuck, so I spent some time scraping gasket residue. I think that in some poin in this car's life a battery had exploded in the engine bay or something because pulling the engine/tranny assembly revealed some rust only where the battery is located. I spent some more time sanding and taking a wire brush to the rust with my dremel and using rust killer to rid the frame and subframe of this nasty chemical reaction that can lead to future problems. Luckily it wasnt much rust and I got to it when I did. the stock clutch looked like it only had a few thousand miles of life left in it, so I decided to scrap it and use the centerforce dual friction clutch I had sitting in my garage. After a few days of turning wrenches, I was finally ready to crank it over yesterday evening. It turned on after a few tries, but it's alive. I let it reach operating temp and verified that the fans were functioning properly. I checked why the malfunction indicator lamp was on, and found out that the 02sensor will need replacing. I was relieved that's all it was. I also have an idle surge issue I need to figure out, but I'll work on all the little details when I have more time. For now, the main thing was just having a running car again.
After all that was done, I took it out for a test drive. On the streets it drove just fine. No problems, oil pressure and coolant temp checked out just fine. Next was the freeway test drive. I drove from Pomona, where I had my car while I worked on it, to my house in La Habra. From the Garey onramp to about the Nogales exit on the 60fwy, coolant temp was fine. The temp needle started rising steadily over the halfway mark from there until I exited on Azusa, being ready to shut the car off if the engine temperature gets too hot. It wasn't until I got off he throttle and started driving in the streets that engine temp started stabilizing back to normal operating temp. I continued from Azusa to hacienda blvd throuh Colima. Going up the hill on hacienda caused the coolant temp to rise again. I made it to he top of the hill and coasted down the other side of it, and again, it wasn't until I let off the throttle that the temp lowered. I got the car home without overheating. This morning, before starting the car I checked the coolant level and made sure the system was burped before turning it on. I made it to school via the streets just fine. After class today I'm going to take it on the freeway again to see if it acts the same way.
Anyways, I'm thinking that the problem may be the cheap eBay aluminum radiator that came with the car. I bought a new water pump, radiator cap, thermostat, and it has fresh coolant (Peak 50/50). This is why I'm thinking the radiator may be the culprit to the engine temp rising at freeway speeds and under load, e.g. going up a hill.

when you burped the cooling system was the heater on?

what kind of head gasket did you use? metal? composite?

did you reuse the old head bolts or do you have ARPs? what did you torque them too? do your fans turn on and off correctly?

do you have a thermostat installed? what temp?

well I think you may have over torqued the ARPs already I think they should be to 85ftlbs, did you use moly lube on the threads.

If it only overheats on the fwy then I dont think its the fans do you have a front mount?

honestly im leaning toward the cooling system having air in it still, when you burp the system again switch it from cool to heat, you dont actually have to turn the fans on, then let it heat cycle atleast 3 times and keep topping it off, then when your done put the cap on fill up the overflow and shut the car down. and let it cool completly. when you return to the car take off the cap and it should be completly full.

you just had the front mount right? no poly side mount, with my mount you really only need the front and two side mounts for most cars id say under 350hp if your going more all four would be good

also theres a way to bridge the fans together so they both come on at the same time regardless of AC operation, id do that instead of switching them
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/2gcoolingfan.html

well you shouldent need to turn on the AC with them working correctly they should cycle normally, test this out when you heat cycle the car with the pressure cap off

well Wally would also have you put a "high performance rag" through your timing belt

sorry wall :p

95ft lbs is pushings the limits read through this
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie- ... -bolt.html

arp says 80ft/lbs them selves i would do 85 ft/lbs on mine

Lol @ "high performance rag"
Yeah, they do turn on themselves, but I can turn them on also by turning on the ac. That's why I need a switch so I can have control of them without having to turn on the ac.
So u think that the overheating can be caused by overtorquing the arp's?

I doubt he overtorqued them I rocked them at 95ft lbs with a composite HG as welland never overheated I used the moly lub that came with the ARP's and lmfaaooo!!! at the performace rag haha

I think I might have resolved the problem. Every time before I drove the car, I would top off the coolant until tonight after class. I removed the cap and the coolant was completely full. This is a 4 hour class, plenty of time for the engine to cool down. I hopped on the freeway and exited hacienda so I can go up the hill again since it didnt exceed the halfway mark on the temp gauge. On the drive up the hill the temp gauge still didn't exceed the halfway mark. Im hoping the system just had to be properly bled to rid he air. I will find out tomorrow afternoon when I get out of class and ambient temp will be much higher. Hopefully it's good now.
If the oveheating issue is fixed, I'll get to do maintenance on the suspension, and from there, hopefully be ready to start modding.

People often overlook the possibility of air being in the system and assuming topping it off naturally displaces all the air out of the system. The water pump propeller was not designed to move air and a large enough air bubble sitting right there, your coolant is going no where.